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Advertisers MFSC - Malta Financial Services Centre Maltese-American Chamber of Commerce METCO - Malta External Trade Corporation Ltd.
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Valletta - “A city built by gentlemen, for gentlemen.”
“The city, its streets, its churches and palaces reflect the proud spirit, the chivalry and the achievements of the Knights who were basking in the glory,” is how M. Ellul describes Valletta in Legacy in Stone.
The Maltese hired the architect Francesco Laparelli de Carotona, an Italian who had worked with Michelangelo to build the dome of St. Peter’s, to design Valletta. Laparelli was forward thinking enough to build both a garbage disposal and a drainage system that used fresh sea water to flush trash from underground ditches and channels. He also built the city on a grid system that allowed cool breezes to enter and flow through the city during the stifling summer months.
A walking tour of Valletta is the perfect way to take in the most important sites. The following tour takes you through its bustling streets.
The excitement begins as you enter the city through the City Gate. Take a deep breath and inhale the scents of the bakery carts that set up in the morning and sell typical Maltese sweets and breads. Maltese bread is very crusty on the outside, while the pastries, made with honey, almond, coconut and anis are a mix between British and Arabic-style desserts.
Once inside the gates you will find yourself on lively Republic Street, the main avenue that runs all the way down to Fort St. Elmo. Expect to bump into hundreds of Maltese and locals alike, as Republic Street is a place where all cultures come together to shop and be seen. Stop in at the Cafe Royale, at the entrance to Republic Street, for a strong cup of Italian cappuccino and fortify yourself for the tour ahead.
St. John’s Co Cathedral and Museum is one of the most impressive sites in this most impressive of cities. Dominating St. John’s Square, the cathedral was given the status of Co Cathedral by Pope Pius VII in 1816. Built between 1573 and 1577 by Cassar, it is considered to be his masterpiece. In stark contrast to the austere outside, the interior is lavish and sumptuous. Practically every inch of the walls is painted, gilded and filled with treasures. Marble tombstones line the floors, well-preserved frescoes that pay homage to the different Auberges cover the walls, and chapels dedicated to different “langues” (languages or groups of Knights) are laden with art. Michelangelo da Caravaggio’s painting of St. Jerome lies in the Chapel of Italy, and another of his paintings considered the museum’s greatest treasure, The Beheading of St. John, is the focus in the oratory.
Back on Republic Street are the Law Courts, which originally housed the Auberge of Auvergne. Immediately in front is the Great Siege Square. A short walk away is Republic Square, originally the “Piazza del Tesoro” and then “Queen’s Square.” Today it is a lovely spot to unwind before heading down to see more sites.
The Malta National Library, with a foundation dating back to 1555, is behind the square. The library is considered by many to be one of the finest architectural specimens in the city. Opened to the public in 1812, this library houses numerous valuable books and manuscripts, including the minutes from the Knights’ meetings between the 12th and 18th centuries.
Head down narrow Strait Street, the only place where Knights could fight their duels, and later “The Gut” or red-light district under the British, to Manoel Theater, built in 1732. The theater was meant “to provide decent leisure- time activities” for the Knights. Re-opened after WW II after the destruction of the Opera House, the theater has been returned to its original form and is the site of many plays and operas. The unique acoustics have been recognized on an international level.
From this point, visitors can head to the end of Republic Street to the Mediterranean Conference Center and Malta Experience, both of which are housed in a former hospital, which was built in 1575. The Grand Sala ward overlooked the Grand Harbour, but more importantly was one of the longest halls unsupported by pillars in all of Europe. Today it is a spectacular conference center and a wonderful place to see a variety of cultural shows and events.
Across the road are steps leading down to a small area where locals swim in the Mediterranean and contemplate the panoramic view and the history of their island. A tour around the ramparts and the defensive forts and bastions that overlook the Grand Harbour where many great battles were fought takes about two hours, unless you hire a horse-drawn carriage or take a cruise of the Grand Harbour, resplendent during the day or night.
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Table of Contents Building bridges and embracing the future |
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If it wasn’t for the Great Siege of Malta in 1565, the elegant walled city of Valletta might not exist. During the Turks’ vicious attack on Malta, Sultan Suleiman I’s forces focused on taking the peninsula between Marsamxett and the Grand Harbour because of its strategic importance. Once the Turks were vanquished, Grandmaster Jean de La Vallette, known as the greatest fighter of his day, and the Knights of the Order of St. John directed their money and energy on creating this fascinating city in that area.
Later, the Maltese architect Giralamo Cassar took the Italian’s design one step further and gave “homogeneity without monotony to a small closely built city, where a less restrained taste might have left monstrosities,” explained E. Schermerhorn in Malta of the Knights. Today, visitors can walk where knights once trod and admire the 250-to-400-year-old buildings that are still in excellent shape. That UNESCO has declared the city a world heritage site is no wonder.
At the beginning of Republic Street is the Royal Opera House, once the center for cultural life in Valletta. Built by the same architect who worked on Covent Garden in London, the Opera House has not been repaired since the bombing air raid during World War II. Across the street is the Palazzo Ferriera, a city palace that housed the Knights’ armory. A short walk away is the Auberge de Provence, or the palace of the French Knights of Provence. During the British reign, this mansion became the Union Club and was a hive of social activity. Today it is the National Museum of Archaeology, which houses prehistoric pottery and treasures from the early Neolithic period, including the Venus of Malta and the Sleeping Lady, which was uncovered in the Hypogeum.
The Grandmaster’s Palace is another of Cassar’s masterpieces. Built in the 1570s, the palace is the seat of the Maltese president and parliament. Part of the Palace is open to the public, including the armory that houses the heavy armor of Adolph de Wignacourt, which weighs more than 110 pounds. If you are lucky enough to have a reason to get inside the working part of the Palace, you will uncover corridors lined with Knights wearing armor, a tapestry room with perfectly preserved works of art, a clock room that also houses the paintings of Malta’s presidents, and a magnificently painted hallway that leads to Parliament.