Alex Benitah, a visitor to the Eastern Bloc after the collapse of communism, described people there as withdrawn. On visiting Nigeria at the end of military rule he was struck by the difference. “People in Nigeria are so friendly!” he exclaimed. “They’re all so cheerful! Everywhere you go it’s ‘good afternoon, you are welcome,’ with a big smile.”

Wilfred Shaapera Tile, head of the sociology department of the University of Abuja, cites democracy as the reason for Nigerians’ high spirit. “People are happy because their yearning for democracy has become a reality,” he said. “Modern societies prefer an atmosphere of freedom where everybody can pursue their legitimate goals and aspirations. Nigerians are happy because the democratic dispensation allows this.”

With or without democracy, Nigerians have shown much resilience and unflinching ability to adapt to the most adverse situations that the late maverick musician, Fela Anikulapo-Kuti, described the phenomenon in a song titled “Suffering and Smiling.” Celebrating the ability of the average Nigerian to keep smiling in spite of everything, the song was an anthem during the heyday of Afro-beat.

According to Emeka Okafor, a senior lecturer of sociology at the University of Abuja, this indeed is what was happening. “Over the last fifteen years, most Nigerians suffered tremendously under military rule,” he said.

Okafor believes military rule generated a lot of apathy toward the activities of government. “People no longer were bothered about what government could provide for them,” he said. “They [Nigerians] are very resilient. They can adapt themselves to whatever conditions they find themselves. In a way they have left matters to providence, since government failed them so often in the past.”

Suleiman Mohammed, a political sociologist in the same department, agrees with Okafor. Mohammed pointed out that over the years Nigerians came to see government as the private property of a select few perpetually at the top and continuously recycling themselves into power. He explained, “This trend created a culture of alienation, poverty and a state of hopelessness.” The new democracy has renewed people’s spirit and their voice. Everywhere you go in Nigeria, people are animatedly talking about the new administration, their hopes and their expectations. Nigerians seem more than ready to give the new dispensation a chance.

One aspect of Nigerian life that seems to explain people’s resilience is a deep attachment to religion. Churches and mosques abound. In 1984, Dangiwa Umar, then managing director of the Federal Housing Authority, complained that Nigeria has more buildings for worship than residences.

“God dey,” meaning “There is God,” is a common saying among Nigerians whenever they are faced with a seemingly intractable problem. The consolation of religion grew in popularity under General Sani Abacha, Nigeria’s most brutal dictator. As Abacha daily imprisoned his opponents, frightened others into exile and executed those who defied him, many took refuge in religious institutions.

Fittingly, Abacha’s death under bizarre circumstances has further entrenched belief that “God dey.” Stephen Okafor, an auto parts merchant, said, “God is Nigeria. When the pope came to Nigeria, he prayed at a public square that God should take away anything that would constitute a problem to the unity and progress of Nigeria. God took away Abacha and brought President Obasanjo. We thank him for doing that.”